#Crusher run gravel how to#
#Crusher run gravel full#
#Crusher run gravel crack#

Crusher Runs often have a much higher percentage of the smaller particle sizes (higher fines content).Ĭrusher Run is normally used as a sub-base for domestic applications, as when compacted it makes an extremely solid and level base for patios, garden buildings and flooring. Where the crusher run is produced in a quarry that also produces a fully graded Clause 803 Type 1 it is likely the frost susceptibility will be compliant with highway standards, however, the particle size will be very different. There is no specification for crusher run and therefore it differs from Type 1 in both particle size and frost susceptibility. It is important to note that there is no specification for DOT Type 1 so whilst it may comply with the Clause 803 grading for particle size, it is likely it will not comply with the frost susceptibility rating and therefore would not be suitable for major infrastructure works.Ĭrusher Run, on the other hand, can be graded to various sizes but most commonly is offered in 75mm – dust or 40mm – dust. Where some quarries cannot comply with the MOT Type 1 specification, they offer a product called DOT Type 1.

The frost susceptibility rating is often why some softer limestones are unable to meet the specification. Type 1 stone is made to ‘Clause 803: The Specification for Highway Works’ and is graded to comply with certain particle sizes and a frost susceptibility rating. Type 1 material is graded from 40mm down to dust and is used for a regulating course under highways, sometimes referred to as sub-base.

#Crusher run gravel how to#

How to manage that is above my pay grade.Despite how these two products look when in a stockpile they are, in fact, very different. If the slab surface will become your flooring, then plan for rain to pay a visit the moment it is all floated out. Do note that the fabric will leave traces of its presence, so might nix that if you are staining the slab for flooring. Even in the milder parts of the country, drying too fast will affect the final product, so be ready to mist or cover the slab with fabric to hold moisture steady as it cures.

#Crusher run gravel crack#

Everyone will note that concrete will crack, so plan on where it will crack with relief cuts or grooving the pour. Proper welded mesh or rebar, seated for height will go a long way to secure a stable slab. It may not be compatible with certain floor staining treatments, but I do not have direct experience. I used polyester fiber additive in my garage slab, which is still perfect. I found the net re-inforced plastic from HD to be quite tough and able to stand up to the many trips across it during pex and mesh placement. I think that is the more common placement. The plastic went down next, not under the foam. Last note, I put down recycled 25 psi XPS under the slab and on top of the radon pipes in the rock bed. Perhaps not harm done, but I am glad to see the drain working to keep things as dry as possible down below. If I had gone with compacted fill I rather suspect the water would create a giant wet sponge under the slab/gravel.

#Crusher run gravel full#

(In addition to the full perimeter drain system.) A truth pipe I set in the corner above the exit drain has proven my suspicions about water getting inside the foundation. Having 100% 3/4 washed rock ensured that all the water entering under my floor slab would be able to migrate to the lowest corner where the exit drain is placed. The ground water here runs along the top of the bedrock if present, so the chances of having water infiltrate under the slab via rock fissures is quite high. If I recall correctly, the difference was going to be only $3-400 due to the much higher labor costs of placing, compacting and leveling in lifts thanks to the very sloping bedrock I am built upon.

soil that needed to be compacted and leveled before topping with stone. Wanting to pre-install radon vent pipes was one reason, the other was net cost of all stone vs. In my particular situation, I DID fill the entire foundation with washed 3/4 rather than have a base with 4' topping.

The trucking and placement costs likely exceed the net cost of the stone. I suspect the actual per ton cost of 3/4 washed is not all that much greater than unwashed. If you have a radon situation that requires venting, then washed 3/4 would also be a better choice for best flow and reduced infiltration of the piping should you ever have a flooding event that raises the ground water under the slab. Local water table conditions should probably dictate your choice. Not sure how you are embedding utilities below the slab, but extra moisture is seldom helpful long term. The fines left with unwashed 3/4 might help hold any moisture collecting below. IMHO you would do better to use the washed 3/4 as your topping over other fill.